I don’t know about you, but High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS) buzzes around me like it’s some kind of national conspiracy to make me obese or diabetic. At a table with intelligent people, it’s a shake of the head and a sigh and a helpless, “I don’t know how to stop it.” It’s yet another example of how our government (FDA, I’m pointing at you!) can put an A on a bad paper and graduate the undeserving. But is it all of these things, or is my middle-class, higher-educated, liberal-tending group of friends (God love ‘em) caught up in the organic craze, in the hippie backlash of food awareness?

I like the idea of organic foods. I can’t afford them, but I like the idea of them. I am middle-class, higher-educated and liberal. So I like the idea of no trans fats and less unhealthy carbs and more whole wheats and free-range eggs and meats. So, it stands to reason that I also like the crusade against high fructose corn syrup. However, after reading a recent article in QSR magazine and perusing some of the more recent studies on HFCS, I’m starting to wonder if my organic sensibilities have, like the hippies, gone astray.
In 2004, a nutrition professor (Barry Popkin) and a professor of medicine (George Bray) wrote a paper wherein they proposed that HFCS may be responsible for the increase in obesity in Americans since the 1970s. In one of their more gripping seal-the-deal moments, they took a graph of the consumption of HFCS in the US and overlayed it with a graph of the increase in American obesity. Bam! The graphs matched up almost perfectly. Four years later, most Whole Foods-going shoppers and eaters spout off the following information with confidence, “It’s been linked to obesity, and it’s just not something that’s natural or good for you” (NYTimes). Makers of the documentary King Corn talk as if they were betrayed by their mothers when they say, “We found out that our corn was going to become not sweet corn on the cob but in fact fast food, essentially corn-fed beef for hamburgers and high fructose corn syrup soda. In the course of the year of making our film and seeing where our crop was going to go, we came to question the agricultural system that’s in place right now as it affects our food” (QSR). While having your corn go to corn-fed cows is probably a bad thing (experts say that corn-fed cows are more likely to provide tougher and ecoli-friendly meat), what’s the big deal about your corn going to HFCS? While the FDA’s official stance is that it’s not “natural”, John White (PhD, White Technical Research) and John Foreyt (Professor of Medicine, Baylor College) argue that it goes through the same processes that don’t disqualify other products, and it does not contain artificial materials, and meets all the FDA’s guidelines for a natural food ingredient. Moreover, it only accounts for 10% of the world’s sweeteners. So what’s with all the moaning and groaning?
Based on what I’ve seen in researching for this post, it appears to me that we’re just looking for a scapegoat on why we’re getting fatter. I know I’m getting fatter because the portions at restaurants are so huge, because I like cheese and pasta and bread a little too much, and it’s hard to resist Starbucks chai lattes and Cabot’s ice cream. I work out at least three times a week, but I also know I could work out harder. That’s why I’m getting fat.
The truth is, HFCS is really not that different from regular sugar. One of the reasons industries switched to HFCS and continue to use it instead of sugar is that it’s cheaper and more efficient for certain products. Instead of having to carry in bags of sugar, HFCS can be pumped from a truck in the parking lot. While sugar can make old soda taste different –yes, Coke’s different here than in Mexico, but imagine if it was different between Boston and New Orleans?—HFCS keeps a Coke a Coke no matter where you are in the US (which makes my Dad eternally happy). Moreover, it helps keep canned foods fresher, retains moisture in cereals, helps maintain that soft texture in baked goods, enhances the flavor in fruit fillings in yogurts and your favorite jelly-filled donuts, it balances the tartness of the tomato in your pasta sauce, and it’s far more stable than sugar in acidic carbonated sodas. So why are we whining about HFCS when we should be celebrating?
Okay, I wouldn’t go that far. The point is, whether it’s HFCS or regular sugar, it’s making us fat. We are still consuming calories. HFCS is no worse than sugar, but it’s also no better. That’s all current experts are saying in their attempts to calm the organic-loving masses. Even the firestarters themselves are recanting. “It was a theory meant to spur science,” Popkin said in the NY Times. It was a suggestion, a proposition, more than a statement of researched fact. Popkin still believes that with further research he may be proved right, but for now he says it’s a misconception to blame HFCS for obesity.
My suggestion? Abandon the age-old habit of scapegoats, and start taking responsibility. Americans have bad eating habits, and while I know that salad’s going to make me feel happy and refreshed, that pizza sure smells damn good.